North to Alaska: The Hooles visit the Great White North
Posted By KEN HOOLES
Posted 3 months ago
In early June, my wife Pat and I began an amazing adventure in the great state of Alaska. It was an opportunity to visit perhaps one of the last frontiers in North America, and, of course, to add a few new birds to my life list.
Our journey began when our plane descended over the vast mudflats of Cook's Inlet and landed in the largest city in Alaska, Anchorage. This city's population is about 260,000 and holds half of the state of Alaska's residents. On Good Friday of 1964, Anchorage experienced one of the strongest earthquakes in history. Most of the city was destroyed and then rebuilt. From the mudflats that prevent ships from entering the city, several Mew and other gulls could be seen flying in the city. The bird watching highlight here for me was the sighting of a flock of Vaux's Swifts circling an old abandoned building.
Anchorage is the gateway to the interior of Alaska. From here we boarded a train for an eight-hour
journey to Denali National Park. While on route along the tracks, I was able to observe Trumpeter Swans nesting in the swamps, Red-tailed Hawks, the odd Black-billed Magpie, and several moose.
One of the most scenic and largest parks in Alaska is Denali National Park; it also encompasses Mount McKinley, the highest mountain in North America (20,320 feet).
The park covers 9,419 square miles, has spectacular views, quiet lakes, snow-capped peaks, and varicoloured tundra. Park motor access is restricted to just 90 miles, and only park buses are permitted beyond the 14-mile mark. Denali hosts 167 species of birds and 39 kinds of mammals.
On our 6 a. m. excursion into the park, we were able to observe more Black-billed Magpies, Wilson's Warblers, Red-tailed Hawks, White-crowned Sparrows, Mew Gulls, American Crows, Ravens, Common Grackles, and Bald Eagles. The highlights included Golden Eagles, and both Rock and Willow Ptarmigans.
The next day at a dog sledding demonstration at the entrance to the park, I observed several old friends that included Black-capped Chickadee, Dark-eyed Juncos, a Robin, Tree Swallows, and a Merlin. Over the two days in Denali National Park we also observed Moose, Snowshoe Hares, Pica, Arctic Squirrel, Dall Sheep, Red Fox, and at least six Grizzly Bears.
From Denali National Park we once again boarded our train bound for the city of Fairbanks, best known for its northern lights, midnight sun, and being the northern terminal of the Alaska Railway. The city is a major supply point for arctic oil operations.
In this city, we stayed at a Princess Lodge on the Steese River, which was excellent for both evening and early morning bird watching. On the lodge grounds and riverbanks, I located Yellow-rumped Warbler, Alder Flycatcher, Northern Flicker, Rusty Blackbirds, Violet-Green Swallows, Bohemian Waxwings, and Northern Shovellers and American Widgeon ducks. We also observed a pair of Sandhill Cranes flying over the lodge.
One of the highlights of Fairbanks was a steamboat ride down the Chena River. Along the route at a restored Indian village, we added Red-breasted Mergansers, Rough-legged Hawks and a Spotted Sandpiper to our bird list.
After two days at Fairbanks, we r travels with a 14-hour bus ride to Dawson City, Yukon. While on route we stopped at the historic Rika's Roadhouse on the Tanna River. Many persons in the past have stayed over at this rest stop and today it still plays a similar role. Instead of gold seekers and trappers as in the past, it now serves as a rest stop and museum for travellers on route to Dawson. On the grounds of this rest stop, I located Bank Swallows, Yellow Warbler, Canada Geese, and a Swainson Thrush.
From 1896 -1899, thousand of gold seekers and adventurers braved the perils of the Chilicoot Pass and the Trail of '98 to reach the present site of Dawson City in the hope of fulfilling their dreams of riches. During these years, the town's population swelled to close to 20,000 people, all either searching for gold or providing services to the prospectors. Today there are fewer than 1,500 people living in the town, but it is a great tourist attraction. Several old buildings still exist, as well as a modern version of Diamond Tooth Gertie's Saloon, both Robert Service's and Jack London's preserved cabins, and Pierre Berton's childhood home. Besides the odd Northwest Crow, the only new birds I found in the area was my first sighting of Hammond's Flycatcher and a Townsend Warbler.
From Dawson, we journeyed back into Alaska to the Wrangell-Elias National Park. It is the largest park in the United States and has 16 of the highest peaks in North America, including Mount Drum. In this park, I found several of the same birds previously mentioned as well as several Golden Eagles.
After two nights here, we journeyed further south to the City of Valdez - home to the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. This is one of the most majestic routes in Alaska, consisting of views of mountain peaks, glaciers, and waterfalls. In terms of wildlife, we spotted a Black Bear and a couple of adult Bald Eagles coming into the town. This town was the end of our land journey and the beginning of the next phase of our Alaskan adventure.
Next week: Part Two - The Sea and Coastal Journey.
Please call me with your bird sightings and feeder reports at 613-735-4430 or e-mail me at: hooles@nrtco.net.
